1. Housing
- Tank Size: Adult royal pythons typically grow to be around 3-5 feet long. For an adult, a 40-gallon enclosure (or larger) is ideal. Juveniles can start in a 20-gallon tank, but they will need a larger space as they grow. A larger tank allows them to explore and feel secure, as they are ground-dwelling snakes.
- Enclosure Type: A glass aquarium, PVC cage, or plastic tub with a secure lid works well for ball pythons. These snakes are escape artists, so make sure the lid is tightly secured. Plastic tubs are often easier to maintain humidity levels and can be a more affordable option.
- Substrate: Use a safe, absorbent substrate like aspen shavings, cypress mulch, reptile carpet, or paper towels. Avoid using cedar shavings, as they are toxic to snakes. The substrate should be 2-3 inches deep, so the snake can burrow or hide as it wishes.
- Temperature: Ball pythons require a temperature gradient to regulate their body heat. The warm side of the tank should be 88-92°F (31-33°C), while the cool side should be around 75-80°F (24-27°C). A basking spot on the warm side should be between 90-95°F (32-35°C). Use an under-tank heater or heat tape to provide heat from below, and always monitor the temperature with thermometers on both the warm and cool sides.
- Humidity: Royal pythons thrive in humid environments. Maintain humidity levels between 50-60% in the enclosure. During shedding periods, raise the humidity to around 60-70% to help the snake shed properly. To maintain humidity, mist the enclosure, use a humidity-retaining substrate, and provide a shallow water dish large enough for soaking.
- Lighting: Ball pythons are nocturnal and do not require UVB lighting. A simple day-night cycle is fine. Provide around 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness each day. You can use a low-wattage light bulb to maintain a proper day/night cycle, but it should not be too bright.
2. Diet
- Carnivorous Diet: Royal pythons are strict carnivores and feed primarily on rodents in the wild. In captivity, their diet consists of appropriately-sized frozen-thawed prey, such as mice, rat pups, or small rats. The prey should be no larger than the width of the snake’s body at its widest point.
- Feeding Frequency:
- Juveniles: Feed every 5-7 days.
- Adults: Feed every 7-10 days.
- Frozen vs. Live Prey: Always feed frozen-thawed prey to avoid injury to your snake. Never feed live prey, as it can harm your snake. Thaw and warm up the prey before feeding it to your snake to a temperature of about 90°F (32°C).
- Water: Provide fresh water at all times. The water bowl should be large enough for the snake to soak in, as ball pythons often drink and soak when they feel stressed or during shedding. Change the water regularly to keep it clean.
- Feeding Tips: If your snake refuses food, it might be going through a feeding strike (a normal behavior for ball pythons), especially during winter months or if they are stressed. Offering prey during their regular feeding schedule and maintaining appropriate environmental conditions (temperature, humidity) can help encourage feeding.
3. Socialization & Interaction
- Docile Nature: Royal pythons are typically calm and gentle snakes, making them excellent pets for beginners. They tend to be shy and will curl into a ball when threatened, hence the name "ball python." With regular, gentle handling, they can become accustomed to human interaction.
- Handling: Ball pythons generally tolerate handling well but should not be handled excessively, especially during the first few weeks after acquisition. Start with short sessions and gradually increase the handling time. Always approach the snake gently and support its entire body when lifting it.
- Handling Frequency: Limit handling to 2-3 times per week, especially if your snake is new or in the process of shedding. Avoid handling immediately after feeding, as it may cause digestive distress.
- Stress-Free Handling: If your snake feels stressed or threatened, it may curl up in a defensive position. Allow your snake to rest and adjust to its new environment before attempting handling. Never pull on the snake to make it move; always let it move on its own.
4. Health & Grooming
- Shedding: Royal pythons shed their skin as they grow, and a healthy snake should shed its skin in one complete piece. If you notice that your snake is having difficulty shedding, it may be due to insufficient humidity levels or dehydration. Increase the humidity and provide a humid hide to encourage proper shedding.
- If pieces of skin remain stuck, you can help by soaking the snake in lukewarm water or misting it with water.
- Cleaning the Enclosure: Keep the enclosure clean by removing any waste immediately. Perform a complete substrate change every 4-6 weeks. Spot clean the substrate to remove feces or leftover food to reduce the chance of bacterial growth.
- Signs of Illness: Keep an eye out for signs of illness, such as:
- Lethargy or unusual hiding behavior
- Labored breathing or wheezing
- Loss of appetite
- Abnormal shedding or retained skin
- Swelling, lesions, or mucus from the nose or mouth If you notice any of these symptoms, it’s important to consult a reptile veterinarian as soon as possible.
5. Breeding (If Applicable)
- Breeding Season: The breeding season for ball pythons typically occurs from October to March. Males will become more active, and females will ovulate in response to cooler temperatures and longer periods of darkness. If you plan to breed ball pythons, ensure you have the proper setup for both the male and female, with sufficient hiding spaces and a cool-down period for females before breeding.
- Egg Laying: Female ball pythons lay a clutch of 4-10 eggs after mating. They will need a separate, secure enclosure for egg-laying, with a humidity of around 80% and a temperature of 80-85°F (27-29°C). The eggs should be incubated at around 88-90°F (31-32°C) for about 55-60 days.
- Hatchlings: After hatching, the baby pythons will be about 8-12 inches long and should be offered pinkie mice or rat pups. Hatchlings will need their own small enclosure until they grow large enough to be housed in a larger tank.
6. Behavior & Personality
- Shy and Defensive: Ball pythons are naturally shy and often curl into a ball when they feel threatened or insecure. This is a defensive mechanism to protect themselves from potential predators in the wild. Over time, with proper care and handling, they can become more comfortable around humans and less likely to hide.
- Non-Aggressive: These snakes are not aggressive by nature and are more likely to hide or freeze than to bite. If they feel threatened or frightened, they may strike out, but bites are rare and usually not dangerous. A ball python’s bite is typically a defensive reaction, and they will usually release their grip as soon as they feel safe.
- Intelligent and Curious: Ball pythons are relatively intelligent and will become familiar with their surroundings. They may explore their tank, climb, and investigate their environment, though they tend to be more ground-dwelling and may not be as active during the day as some other species.
7. Safety
- Escape-Proof Enclosure: As mentioned, royal pythons are known for their escape artistry. Ensure that the enclosure is properly secured with a locking lid or that the lid is tightly fitted. Check that all potential escape points are sealed, as ball pythons can squeeze through surprisingly small gaps.
- Toxic Plants & Materials: Make sure the enclosure is free from toxic plants or chemicals. Ball pythons may interact with plants, so choose safe, non-toxic options like pothos or spider plants if you decide to add any foliage to the enclosure.
- Heating & Electrical Safety: Always use a thermostat when using heat sources such as heat pads, heat tape, or heat lamps. Overheating can cause burns, dehydration, or stress in the snake.
Conclusion
Royal pythons (ball pythons) are fantastic pets due to their docile temperament, manageable size, and striking appearance. With the right habitat, diet, and handling, they can make long-lived and enjoyable companions. Whether you are a first-time snake owner or an experienced reptile keeper, the royal python’s calm demeanor and easy care requirements make it an excellent choice for any reptile enthusiast.