EXPERIENCE ROXY'S PET SHOP CARE SHEETS

• Tank Size: Corn snakes are moderately-sized snakes that need adequate space to move and stretch out. A 20-gallon long tank is suitable for an adult corn snake, but larger tanks (like a 40-gallon or larger) are even better, especially for more active snakes. For hatchlings or juveniles, a 10-gallon tank can be used temporarily, but they will need a larger enclosure as they grow.
• Enclosure Type: A glass aquarium with a secure, well-ventilated mesh lid works well for corn snakes. Alternatively, you can use plastic tubs or PVC enclosures with secure lids to help maintain humidity and temperature.
• Substrate: Use a safe, absorbent substrate like aspen shavings, cypress mulch, or reptile carpet. Avoid using sand or cedar wood, as these can irritate the snake’s respiratory system. The substrate should be deep enough to allow your snake to burrow (about 2-3 inches).
• Temperature: Corn snakes require a temperature gradient in their enclosure to regulate their body temperature. The warm side should be between 80-85°F (27-29°C), and the cool side should be around 70-75°F (21-24°C). Use a heat pad or heat tape under the warm side of the enclosure, and a thermostat to regulate the temperature. A basking spot should be about 88-90°F (31-32°C).
• Lighting: Corn snakes are nocturnal and do not require strong UVB lighting. A regular day-night cycle with around 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness works fine. However, a low-wattage light bulb can be used for warmth if necessary.
• Humidity: Corn snakes prefer a humidity level of 40-60%, which can be maintained by regular misting, a shallow water dish for soaking, and using humidity-boosting substrates like cypress mulch. A hygrometer will help you monitor humidity levels.

• Carnivorous Diet: Corn snakes are carnivores and eat rodents (typically mice or rats) in the wild. In captivity, they should be fed appropriately sized frozen-thawed prey, such as mice, rat pups, or small rats. The size of the prey should be no larger than the width of the snake’s widest part of the body.
• Feeding Frequency:
  • Hatchlings and Juveniles: Feed every 5-7 days.
  • Adults: Feed every 7-10 days.
• Frozen vs. Live Prey: Always feed frozen-thawed prey rather than live prey to prevent injury to your snake. Ensure the food item is thawed and warmed to a comfortable temperature before offering it. If you must feed live prey, supervise the feeding to ensure the snake is not harmed.
• Water: Provide a shallow water dish large enough for your snake to soak in if desired. Change the water regularly and keep it clean. Corn snakes will often drink from their water dish, but they may also soak to help with shedding or to maintain hydration.
• Gut-Loading and Supplements: While feeding corn snakes, you don’t need to gut-load the prey. However, if you are concerned about calcium or other supplements, you can dust the prey with a calcium supplement (without phosphorus) or a multivitamin once a month.

• Docile Nature: Corn snakes are typically calm and docile, making them one of the best snakes for beginners. They are generally non-aggressive and can tolerate handling once they become accustomed to their environment.
• Handling: Corn snakes are relatively easy to handle and will usually tolerate regular, gentle handling. However, it’s important to remember that snakes are prey animals and may be startled if handled too roughly or too often.
  • Always approach the snake slowly and calmly from behind. Let the snake move at its own pace and avoid grabbing it by the tail.
  • To handle the snake, support its body with both hands. Avoid picking it up by the head or neck, as this can cause stress.
  • Limit handling to 2-3 times per week and avoid handling right after feeding, as it can cause stress and digestive problems.
• Feeding Response: Corn snakes have an excellent feeding response, and they are often excited when they see food. Be careful not to confuse feeding behavior with aggression.

• Shedding: Corn snakes shed their skin regularly as they grow. Healthy snakes shed in one complete piece. If your snake is shedding in pieces or has retained shed on its body, it may indicate poor humidity or health issues. You can help the shedding process by increasing humidity and providing a humid hide for your snake.
• Cleaning the Enclosure: Regularly spot clean the enclosure to remove any waste. Perform a complete substrate change every 4-6 weeks, depending on the size of the enclosure and the number of snakes.
• Signs of Illness: Common signs of illness in corn snakes include:
  • Lethargy
  • Loss of appetite
  • Abnormal shedding
  • Respiratory issues (gurgling or wheezing sounds)
  • Swelling or abnormal lumpsIf you notice any of these symptoms, it is best to consult with a veterinarian who specializes in reptiles.

• Breeding Season: Corn snakes typically breed in late winter to early spring. Male corn snakes often display courtship behaviors like tail twitching and vibrating to attract females.
• Egg-Laying: Female corn snakes will lay a clutch of 10-30 eggs after mating. The eggs need to be incubated at a temperature of around 80-85°F (27-29°C) and a humidity of 75-80% for proper development. Incubation typically lasts around 60-65 days.
• Hatchlings: When the eggs hatch, the baby corn snakes (hatchlings) should be offered small mice or pinkie rats. Keep hatchlings in a small, secure enclosure and offer them food every 5-7 days.

• Curious and Active: Corn snakes are known for their curiosity and can be quite active in their enclosures. They spend time exploring, climbing (if provided with branches or hides), and foraging for food. It’s important to provide enrichment in the enclosure, such as hiding spots and climbing opportunities.
• Non-Aggressive: These snakes are generally not aggressive and will usually retreat into their hide if they feel threatened. They are defensive rather than aggressive and will not usually bite unless provoked.
• Social and Tolerant: Corn snakes tend to tolerate other corn snakes in the same enclosure if enough space is provided. However, it’s often safer to house them separately to avoid potential issues during feeding or shedding.

• Escape-Proof Enclosure: Corn snakes are excellent escape artists and can slip through surprisingly small gaps. Make sure the enclosure is securely closed and escape-proof, with a well-fitting lid or lock. Double-check the enclosure after cleaning or feeding to ensure everything is tightly secured.
• Toxic Plants & Materials: Ensure the enclosure is free of toxic plants, chemicals, or materials that could harm your snake. Common plants like pothos, spider plants, and bamboo are safe for corn snakes, but always double-check to ensure safety.
• Heating & Electrical Safety: Use a thermostat to regulate the heat source, such as a heat pad or heat lamp, to prevent overheating. Never rely solely on heat lamps without a proper thermostat, as excessive heat can cause burns or stress in your snake.

Corn snakes are one of the best reptiles for beginners due to their manageable size, docile temperament, and relatively easy care requirements. With the right habitat, diet, and regular handling, your corn snake will thrive and provide years of enjoyment. Whether you are keeping a corn snake for its beauty, its calm demeanor, or its fascinating behaviors, you’ll find that with a bit of attention and proper care, this species makes an excellent companion for any reptile enthusiast!